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Nanomaterials 2020, 10, 979 6 of 16 that O/W nanoemulsions containing 1% of Opuntia ficus-indica (L.) Mill extract presented suitable stability for at least 2 months. In addition, the formulation was able to increase the water content of stratum corneum, showing its moisturizing efficacy. Musazzi et al. [74] reported that nanoemulsions could significantly influence the permeation profiles of molecules as a function of their physicochemical properties, and in particular, O/W nanoemulsions significantly improved the permeation profiles of apolar ingredients in comparison to conventional emulsions. 2.12. Other Types Nanoparticles in use in the cosmetic industry can be divided into two groups [75]: (i) biodegradable nanoparticles (e.g., liposomes and chitosan) and (ii) nonbiodegradable nanoparticles (e.g., polystyrene, ZnO, and silica-based nanoparticles). Chitin and its deacetylated derivative—chitosan—are of great interest to the cosmeceutical industry due to their unique biological and technological properties [76] A chitin nanofibril is an example of a nanocrystal obtained from the crustacean exoskeleton, eliminating carbonate and protein portions, while still being considered safe to use [75]. Chitin nanofibrils in emulsions can generate the formation of a hygroscopic molecular film that slows down water evaporation, and contributes to skin hydration [77]. 3. Safety Considerations Nanomaterials in cosmetics could have various functions (e.g., UVA and UVB filters in sunscreens, nano-preservatives). The unique characteristics of any given nanomaterial which may lead to the desired function/property of the cosmetic product may also pose a risk to the consumer. With this in mind, a standard safety evaluation of all nanomaterial is necessary, including tests dealing with the nano-characteristics (e.g., penetration into viable skin layers due to their small size as well as inhalation experiments in the case of sprays/powders). For FDA, some of the key points that should be included in the safety assessment according to the recent guidance [14] are the physicochemical characteristics, agglomeration, and size distribution of NMs, morphology, solubility, density, porosity, stability, and impurities. In addition, the potential exposure routes of NMs should be identified, and in vitro and in vivo toxicological data—including studies on dermal penetration and potential inhalation, genotoxicity studies, and possible skin and eye irritation studies—should be conducted. The exposure assessment for NMs follows a similar procedure to non-NM ingredients, but with a special focus on the nano-aspects. In Figure 3, the schematic outline of the safety assessment of a cosmetic product containing NMs is presented. In Europe, there are NMs for which the SCCS has expressed inconclusive opinions, e.g., Colloidal Silver (nano) [54], Styrene/Acrylates copolymer (nano) and Sodium styrene/Acrylates copolymer (nano) [78], and Silica, Hydrated Silica, and Silica Surface Modified with Alkyl Silylates (nanoform), which is why the EC requested that the SCCS to should assess if a potential risk can be identified [79]. The inconclusiveness is due to the lack of data submitted by the Applicants. One of the most important aspects to take into consideration is the NMs’ routes of exposure. The primary route is skin exposure with the stratum corneum as the first layer of epidermis. There are still some uncertainties regarding the possibility of NMs penetrating through the stratum corneum into viable layers, where toxicological concerns may arise [55]. In Figure 4, a schematic of the structure of the human skin is presented. Although very small NMs still have much larger molecular weights compared to known molecules which penetrate the skin, further tests for every NM to be used in a cosmetic formula should be performed. Extra attention to safety assessment should be given to sprays or aerosols that may contain NMs, because exposure via inhalation is possible. The SCCS Notes of Guidance (SCCS/1602/18) included a non-exhaustive list of parameters that are required for an exposure scenario. For NMs, in addition to the weight-based concentration of the NM, the concentration should also be given in terms of particle number concentration and surface area. Also, changes in the aggregation and/or degradation/dissolution status of the NM during exposurePDF Image | Nanomaterials in Cosmetics: Recent Updates
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